Camping / Climbing

Ten Broek RV Park in Ten Sleep, Wyoming


Our original plan after leaving Yellostone National Park was actually heading to North but we decided to go to EAST from this point. It has been 60 days since we left California and we have driven 2,200 miles so far. But it is only a half way. We still have to drive another 2,000 miles to NY.

本来の予定ではイエローストーン国立公園の後、更に北上する予定だったけれど、進路変更してここからはひたすら東のニューヨークを目指すことに。カリフォルニアを出発して60日、ここまでの移動距離は約3,540 km。今ようやく中間地点で、まだまだ遠いゴールまであと!


Anyway, we drove through YSNP from the west entrance to the east exit and headed to the next destination, Ten Sleep, Wyoming. The population in this village is only about 200 and there are only a couple of pubs and cafes and a gas station there. There is NOT even a supermarket…

というわけで、イエローストーン公園内を西から東へ横断し、Wyoming州の東にあるTen Sleepという人口がわずか200人ぐらいの村にやってきた。ダウンタウンには味のあるパブとカフェが数件とガソリンスタントが1件のみ。

Ten Sleep downtown

The reason why we decided to visit here is that this area is a hidden climbing mecca! The locals don’t really care about climbers and there is no climbing gear shop around. So it was hard to find a route book in the town. We somehow found it in a souvenir shop “Dirty Sally”. But apparently the cover doesn’t look like a  route book at all…


Left: Climbing route book / Right: R’s new rock shoes

Anyway, we got a book  now so all set!  The rock here is rough limestone and there are plenty of pockets, cracks, holds and tons of unique routes! The problem here is the edges are quite sharp so your hands and rock shoes are ripped easily. Actually R’s shoe was torn up…


R wanted to buy a new pair but where would it be? In a souvenir shop?? No way! But guess what, we eventually got a new pair in this town. Well, We stopped by a newly opened brewery(not a shoe shop) in town and talked with its owner and coincidentally he has a PRO-climber friend who lives in town. Then he grabbed a phone and called him in front of us and told us that this pro-climber has a bunch of rock shoes to spare and we could come over later. Oh wow! really? pro-climber!?


His name is Kevin Wilkinson, mainly climbs in Ten Sleep area.

彼の名はKevin Wilkinson、プロのロッククライマー且つ格闘家。R氏とかぶりすぎ。。。

We visited his house 20 min after the brewery owner’ s call. Kevin really is a nice man and showed us some shoes and R got a pair of  SCARPA shoes! He also recommended us some routes and told us that he lived in Nagano, Japan for 6 months. Wow, such a small world!


The very next day, we went to his recommended spots and did some routes. R led a 1oa and got red point. I, on the other hand really struggled with this route but somehow climbed to the top!


R is leading a 5.9 route

I am leading a 10a!!!!

<The routes we did in Ten Sleep canyon / 今回の登攀ルート>

Mondo Beyond
Fake Snake (5.7)
Douggie and Jimmy’s Excellent Adventure (5.8)

Circus Wall
Lucky Bozo (5.8)
I love the big top (5.9)

Ice Planet
Ice station zebra (5.9)
Strange Days (10a)

The RV park is homey, spacious and located only 30 sec from the downtown. You can see cattle and horses walking around back side of the park in the morning. If you are a naturist, you will appreciate the mother of nature here!

RV parkは、ダウンタウンから徒歩30秒。地元のご夫婦が経営するアットホームな施設。バックヤードがロデオの会場だったり、夜中に牛や馬の鳴き声で目が覚めたりなどなど、観光地のRV parkではなかなか味わえない環境だった。Ten sleepは3〜4日もいれば、いろんな人と知り合いになれてしまう、とってもアットホームな村だった。

Ten Broek RV park

Park Access: 100 miles south west of Cody, WY
Number of site: 53 + Cabins
Facility: toilet, shower, laundry, picnic table, Wifi(excellent)
Open month: April to October
Visited on: 2014/6/23-6/29

2 thoughts on “Ten Broek RV Park in Ten Sleep, Wyoming

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